|
Profile of the main peak |
Profile with Shadow Rock |
Bishop's Peak is one of the most developed outdoor climbing area in San Luis Obispo county. It offers a wide variety of climbs, ranging from top roping, sport, bouldering, and a little trad. Bishop's is composed of granite rock and has a few good cracks as well as many good, long face climbs.
Climbs I've Done:
Cracked Wall
| Approach | 15-20 min. up steep hill on main hiking trail |
| Poison Oak | Moderate to High (stay on trail) |
| Sun Exposure | Low (very shady all day) |
This is the main wall most climbers hit at Bishop's because it's the closest one on the trail. Has the largest variety of climbs on the peak, but the marjority of them are 5.10+. However, there are some classic beginner climbs on this route that are great for first timers as well. The majority of climbs are 50'-80' in length and toprope chains are easily accessable. Sport and trad climbing are also options on many of the routes.
Lama (5.10b ***) TR: This is located to the far right hand side. I believe this is the first route that I did outdoors. Not exactly the easiest wall to climb for a first timer, but I managed to skip the hard 5.10 start and climb the rest which was around 5.9. To this day I still can't do the start of Lama.
Western Airlines (5.11b ***) TR: This is located right next to the main crack. I wouldn't exactly say I've done this route successfully. It was more like I struggled my way up and rested on the rope every 5 feet. But I did manage to make it to the top, a feet that was definately a challenge for me and especially my arms.
60 Seconds Over Soledad (5.6 **) TR: This is the main crack on the wall and a classic climb I still enjoy because it is really long and solid, running about 80 feet. Has many holds to choose from inside the main crack and then changes to a fun slab climb halway through, with multiple ways up.
No Permit Required (5.10b **) TR: This is located on the left hand side next to the main crack. The start of this climb, if done using the nasty undercling and bumping to the first clip, is the crux of the route. Only once was I able to stick this move after many attempts. A variation can be used to bypass this first move by starting on the right side, making the route around a 5.9+.
Slippery Slit (5.10c) TR: This is directly to the left of No Permit Required and connects to it at the second bolt. A solid, pumpy climb with a lot of reaching and side pulls. Even though it's not rated any stars, it was one of my favorites on the wall.
Camel (5.10b ***) TR: This is at the far left of the wall. You must have fresh arms to pull off some of the beginning power moves. The crux comes right at the third bolt where you have to use a skinny flake to pull yourself up. This would be my favorite route if it weren't for the spot right below its chimney where I always manage to get stuck.
Shadow Rock
| Approach | 20 min. up steep hill on main hiking trail, then off on skinny climber trail |
| Posion Oak | High (stay on trail) |
| Sun Exposure | Low (little sun in the morning, shady rest of the day) |
This is a giant slab that can be found by taking the hiking trail up to the right before going to Cracked Wall. All routes on this wall must be lead via sport in order to set up anchors. I did my first lead climb on this wall and was thankfull that it was a slab since I managed to fall a good 15-18' before I made the first clip. I ended up sliding all the way to the bottom and landing on my feet unscathed, but with some hot hands! After that blunder I jumped back on the wall and pulled off the route, this time slowly and carefully as possible. Leading was definately an adrenaline rush, and the exposure on Shadow also challenges the nerves. This slab runs a good 160-180' and has a couple multi-pitch routes.
Shadow (5.7 ***) Lead: This was the first route I led as mentioned above. This is located to in the very middle of the wall and starts on a ledge. The first bolt is about 20' up so there tends to be a bit of runout in the beginning and also at the end, which is about 80' up. You feel very exposed as you climb this route.
Pressure Drop (5.9 *) TR: This route is directly to the left of Shadow. I wouldn't bother with this route as there's not that many good holds and a lot of the rock is covered in lichen.
Desperado (5.9 **) Lead: This is to the far right of the wall. My favorite route on Shadow Rock. Has a good 20 foot runout between the 4th and 5th bolt but the climbing in between isn't too difficult.
P-Wall
| Approach | 20-25 min. up steep hill on main hiking trail, then off on skinny climber trail |
| Poison Oak | High (stay on trail) |
| Sun Exposure | Low (little sun in the morning) |
This is the largest formation on Bishop's as well as the highest up on the peak. Located in between Cracked Wall and Shadow Rock, P-Wall can be accessed using the same path as Shadow Rock, but turning left a bit earlier and scrambling up a steep hill. Most of the routes actually start halfway up Bishop's and can be multipitch climbed to get to the top of the peak. P-Wall's routes can be somewhat intimidating because of the exposure, sheer size, and somewhat rusted looking bolt hangars. But we were assured by the ranger that placed the bolts that the hangars just have surface rust and are perfectly safe. Most the routes can only be lead via sport using some pro, but a couple routes on the far left can be toproped. However, I would advice against this since the anchors are only accessible if one is willing to scramble up a 4th class path on the side and shuffling across a skinny ledge that is about 100 feet up.
Out of Hangars (5.10a **) TR: This route is right on the arete to the left of P-Wall. This is a very fun climb as one can use holds from either side of the wall to guide themselves up the corner. Very exposed, but offers breathtaking views.
Stage Fright (5.9 ***) TR: This route is on the left hand side of P-Wall. Has a somewhat challenging start and the crux is getting over the roof at the end. A classic climb I would definately recommend.
Summit Blocks
| Approach | 30-45 min up steep hill on main hiking trail to top of the peak, depends how fast of a hiker you are |
| Posion Oak | Moderate (lower at top) |
| Sun Exposure | High |
The Summit Blocks are a set of huge boulders located at the very top of Bishop's, as one can figure out by looking at the name. Most climbers don't bother hiking all the way up to these for just boulder climbs, but I would definately recommend it to people who want a change from Bishop's typically shaded and cold walls. All the routes can be toproped.
Flakes to Fresno (5.8 ***) TR: This is the only one I've done at the Summit, but a definite classic. Located on the highest boulder on the right hand side of the peak looking up from the trail, this route follows the giant crack going up the middle of the rock. A picture of someone doing this climb is on the front cover of the climbing guide to SLO.
Potato Boulder
| Approach | 10-15 min. up steep hill on main hiking trail and veers off downhill |
| Poison Oak | High |
| Sun Exposure | Low |
This giant boulder is in the woods off the path directly to the right after you pass Chlorissa Boulder. Potato's about 20-25' tall and has all sorts of advanced problems in the 5.10's - 5.12's. Can be toproped since there's several bolts on each side that can easily be accessed by climbing up the back side.
The Left Edge (5.9) TR: This route follows the arete right in front of the oak tree. Easy moves and very short. Not really worth doing.
Unnamed (5.10) TR: This route is directly to the right of The Left Edge and follows a water mark. Lots of tricky and technical moves on tiny flake edges, but very fun nonetheless.
The Dyno-Sore(5.12-) TR: This route begins right on the left corner as you face the downhill side. From sidepulls, you dyno up and right to a square looking pinch, and book it to the top before your arms blow. Took me over 10 tried to land the first move and by then my arms were barely able to get up the rest of the face.
Unnamed (5.10+) TR: This route we set up on the right side of the rock around the corner. Follows a white and black watter mark straight up the rock. Full of tiny and sharp flaky handholds, but has excellent foot placements. By the time I got to the top I couldn't feel my finger tips!
