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Main profile of Rockland and El Dorado	El Dorado Rock
Rockland at sunset	The estuary across from Cabrillo Peak

 

Located right by the ocean and the Morro Bay Eastuary, Cabrillo Peak is one of the most beautiful and laid back places to climb. Has many outcroppings off Quary Trail that are easily accessible. Most routes are less than 40 feet high and can be either top roped, sport climbed, or soloed.

Climbs I've Done:

Rock Land:

Approach	10-15 min. up moderately inclined hill
Poison Oak	Low-Moderate
Sun Exposure	High

This is the large U-shaped formation that can be seen from the parking lot and the first wall you come to on the hiking trail. Has tons of 25' routes that can all be easily top roped by shifting the anchor from one set of bolts to the next.

Tan Streak (5.6 *) TR: This is the route following the bolts on the left of the wall. Great route for beginners.

Chimney Crack (5.8 **) TR: This is the obvious crack right in the middle. A little harder than it looks since it's slightly overhung.

Step Aside (5.8 *) TR: This is to the direct right of Chimney and can be climbed all sorts of ways. If climbed to the left of the bulge then it's a 5.11, but if climbed to the right up the smooth face then it's a 5.8.

The Fly (5.8 *) TR: This route is on the far right corner of Rockland. One of the shortest climbs there, but can be done with multiple variations.

Corner Route (5.6 *) Lead: This is the only bolted route on Rockland on the left hand side. A great lead for beginning sport climbers.

Kermit Crack (5.6 *) TR: This is a great beginner crack that can also be done with trad.

El Dorado:

Approach	15 min., little bit past Rock Land
Poison Oak	Low-Moderate
Sun Exposure	High

This is the next outcrop just east of Rock Land. Has two sides, one of which has some great moderate climbs and the other which has some difficult overhanging ones. I've only done the moderate side but I really want to try the 5.11c problem on the overhanging face one of these days. All routes can be either top-roped or climbed sport and are about 30' high.

Black Gold (5.8 **) TR: This route follows the black streak that goes up the center of the west side. One of my favorite climbs at Cabrillo.

Burial Grounds:

Approach	15-25 min. up moderately inclined hill
Poison Oak	Low-Moderate
Sun Exposure	High

This is located further up the trail and to the left side of a ravine across some scrub brush. The Burial Grounds are actually two boulders, Cave Rock which is the 15' one on the left and Center Stone which is the 25' one on the right. Both rocks can be toproped or bouldered.

Arm & Hammer (5.8) TR: This is on the smaller Cave Rock and follows the crack on the east side. A bit harder than the rating implies, but really fun nonetheless. The front face of Cave Rock can also be climbed using the same anchor but it is unrated in the guide. I would also consider it around a 5.8 since it only consists of two hard power moves and is overhanging.

Spirit Walker (5.10b**) TR: This route is on the smooth west face of Center Stone and follows the arete. Has one hard move in the middle, but the rest I would consider 5.9+/5.10a climbing.

Flaming Arrows (5.8 **) TR: This is directly up the center of the south face. Actually getting onto the face is the crux of the climb since it's a smooth featureless slab at the beginning.

Wilderness Wall

Approach	10-20 min. up moderately inclined hill
Poison Oak	Moderate-High (Totally Tehcnu is named that for a reason)
Sun Exposure	Low

This wall is on the right of the path facing north. It's easily identified by all the vegitation growing around it as well as the lichen covering it. This rock wasn't my favorite of spots at Cabrillo, particularly due to the fact that we were getting eaten alive by mosquitos being right in the middle of a bunch of plants and bushes. Also the rock was crumbly and the person climbing would always be raining down lichen. Definately only a one time experience for me. This rock is about 30' high and can either be toproped easily by climbing around to access the bolts, or lead going up Totally Technu.

Totally Technu (5.10+ ) Lead: This route is a little to the left of the middle and is the only bolted route on Wilderness Wall. It is really well protected and the crux comes after the second bolt getting over the hump.

Kryptonite (5.10c) TR: This route is on the right hand side. All the holds are really crappy sloppers. Wouldn't bother doing this one.

Park Ridge Rock

Approach	15-20 min. up slightly inclined hill
Poison Oak	Moderate-High
Sun Exposure	Moderate-High

This face is right behind Wilderness Wall facing the other direction. It can either be accessed using the same trail as all the other climbs at Cabrillo or by a trail that starts at a parking lot further down the street. Stands about 30' high and can easily be accessed from behind to set up top ropes. Also has a trad lead in the middle called Crespi Critters that follows up a short crack.

Crespi Critters (5.6 *) TR: This route starts in the middle crack and then follows up to a ledge and then to a small face that leads up to the end. It's almost as if you're climbing two seperate faces.

Boobalicious (5.9+ **) TR: This route is directly to the left of Crespi and follows up a bunch of smooth humps (boobies!). The hard part is getting over these smooth humps as there's no real holds to use to get up them (or nipples as you will). Very technical and challenging.

The Slot (5.7) TR: This starts around the corner to the left of Boobalicious. I wouldn't bother with this one.

Old Stone Face:

Approach	20-30 min. up moderately inclined hill
Poison Oak	Low-Moderate
Sun Exposure	High

This is a large face that actually looks like one of the heads from Easter Island. It is located on the easter summit of Cerra Cabrillo and one must do some bushwacking in order to reach it. All of the routes can be toproped, but in order to get to the top of the rock you must solo or climb trad up the back of the head which is about 50' high. After all the trouble getting to the rock and setting up the anchor, this is a big waste of time. The front routes on the face are all 5.11 and the rock is old, flaky, and overhung making it nearly impossible to climb. Just take a picture of the rock since it's really cool looking.