Profile of Magic Bus and many other crags at the Second Pullout	More crags at the Second Pullout
Sandstone Quarry at the third pullout	The first routes on the Front Corridor of Sandstone Quarry
Deeper inside the Front Corridor	Climbers fill the Black Corridor at the Second Pullout
Boulder at the Second Pullout	Multi-pitch crags at Icebox Canyon

Red Rocks was definitely one of the coolest places I've ever climbed. Not only is there enough sport climbs to keep a climber occupied for months, but it is also really close to the "fabulous city" of Las Vegas. The rock here's amazing in that there's multicolored layers of red, black, orange, yellow, and white sandstone. The Front Corridor picture above shows a great example of the diversity of colors and textures of the rock. The yellowish sandstone on the left side was a lot more soft and grainy, while the white, black, and red sandstone on the right was hard and smooth. In the two days we were there, we managed to hit the Magic Bus at the Second Pullout, the Front Corridor at the Sandstone Quarry, and also a great unnamed boulder at the Sandstone Quarry

Climbs I've Done:

Magic Bus

Approach	30-45 min. up steep hill, some class IV climbing required
Poison Oak	None
Sun Exposure	High

This big red and black face is located at the Second Pullout and can be seen from the parking lot. Being the first crag in the Classic Red Rocks Climbs book at the Second Pullout, it seemed that a lot of other people had the same idea as we did. When we arrived there were already two other groups getting ready to climb, so we managed to stake out the only open route in the middle. Four out of the five routes on this face are sport, while the other one can be either done trad or on TR.

Neon Sunset (5.8 ***) Lead: This route is the third route from the left and directly in the middle of the wall. Has around 9 bolts for 65' of climbing, so it is very well protected (some may say even overbolted). Great hand and foot holds up the entire route, albeit a bit crimpy at times.

Sandstone Quarry

Approach	None
Poison Oak	None
Sun Exposure	Low if inside Front Corridor canyon, else high

This crag is located at the third pullout and hosts many great climbs with short approaches. The Front Corridor is the first crag closest to the parking lot and in my opinion had the best climbing at our trip to Red Rocks. Not only are the routes great quality and uncrowded (most climbers flock to the first and second pullout crags), but the majority of them are also in the shade, which is a major plus on those hot sunny days. The Front Corridor has over 20 sport routes on each side of the canyon, and the first couple can be top roped if you hike around the right side up to a cave. There's also some trad climbs here, as well as some sick boulders right off the main path.

Sicktion (5.9+ ***) TR: This route starts under the right side of the cave and can be seen from the parking lot. The crux comes at the beginning at the first 10-15 feet, and afterwards it's very technical and requires good footwork. The last 20 or so feet is the easiest part of the climb and has bomber holds all the way to the top.

Friction Gription (5.9+ ***) TR: This route starts 20' to the left of Sicktion and can also be top roped from an anchor on the left side of the cave. This is very similar to Sicktion in that the crux comes at the beginning, the middle is technically, and the end is really easy. This route and Sicktion were my favorite climbs at Red Rocks.

Unnamed (5.10 c/d *) Lead: This route is deeper inside the Front Corridor and is the first one on the left side. Not being in any of the Red Rocks guides, I suspect that is relatively new. It starts at an overhang with all sorts of great pockets and ledges and the first bolt is up about 15'. After the second bolt the route becomes almost completely vertical and the crux is getting past the third and fourth bolts using almost next to nothing for hands and feet. Unfortunately, once I got the ledge and clipped the fourth bolt, I wasn't able to hit the last bolt over the protruding ledge and finish the route. We were fortunate that the ledge below the fourth bolt could be followed back down to the ground so we were able to clean the route safely and not leave behind any gear. This route looked a lot easier than I thought at the beginning and scared the crap out of me half way up.

Giant Boulder (V0- , 5.9) Boulder/TR: This was the first boulder we spotted off to the left of the main hiking trail, about 200' from the parking lot. Being a good 20' high, we were lucky to find two bolts on top that allowed us to set up a top rope and climb the overhanging route on the left front side. This boulder had many great TR and bouldering routes and as well as some great traverses.

 

Note on climb ratings: * - Good, ** - Excellent, *** - Classic

 

	Some climbers tackle one of the many crags at the Second Pullout		We spot the lightening god Raiden climbing a boulder at the Second Pullout
	We stake out a route among the groups of climbers at the Magic Bus		Justin sends Neon Sunset
	Justin explores a nearby cave at Sandstone Quarry		Score! Justin finds toprope anchors and some booty on them! (2 locking biners)
	Looking inside the Front Corridor		Julio starts the classic route Sicktion
	I look down from the middle of Sicktion. This route was so awesome		Justin grabs some chalk on his way up Sicktion
	Julio side pulls on Friction Gription		Another shot of Julio on Friction Gription
	I lead a tough unnamed route inside the Front Corridor		Thinking about my next couple moves in order to get the next clip
	Justin follows up my unnamed route		Justin approaches the second to last bolt above the ledge
	Here's Monster Skank, the hardest route at Red Rocks, rated 5.13d		We line up for a shot in front of Sandstone Quarry after our first day of long hard climbing
	Here's a sick boulder we found along the path of Sandstone Quarry		Mike shows us how to climb
	Mike cringes in pain as he pulls off a sharp edge with his left hand		The greatest climber is the one having the most fun
	I search for good holds at the roof of the boulder		Justin gets ready for the crux of the climb
	The entire Las Vegas crew after a second day of climbing