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Looking out at Red Rocks Canyon from Panty Wall |
Nearing the end of the day at the first pullout |
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First pullout looking east torwards Vegas |
Kind of a surreal pic I took at the first pullout at dusk |
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Icebox Canyon, mutlipitch crags on the northern side of Red Rocks Canyon |
One of the best crags in Red Rocks, Panty Wall! |
Red Rocks, Part Deux!
This was the second time we hit up the legendary Red Rocks Canyon for some sick sport climbs, and this year we came bearing experience. Although we had the best of intentions and were totally pumped up the first day, mother nature had other plans and gave us a little scare as it started hailing right when we got out to the Sandstone Quary. But after sticking it out, the dark clouds rolled through and a warm sun came out to dry the rock within minutes. It was great climbing the rest of the day on our favorite classic from last year, Friction Gription, as well as the huge boulder right off the trail, and then it was off to a new wall that we'd never done before at the first pullout: Panty Wall!
Although the approach to Panty Wall was a bit tricky and long, it was well worth it. RC.com said that this is the most popular and greatest moderate sport climbing crag at Red Rocks, and they weren't kidding! This wall is abundant in 5.7 and 5.8 leads and has well over 11 anchors. Nicki did here first lead ever here on the far right route, Silk Panties, and flashed it without any problem.
The next day we decided to hit up another classic wall we had done last year, the Magic Bus, and it was surprisingly uncrowded this time. So Justin and I busted out our ropes and set of quickdraws and went to town, jumping on some of the 5.8 leads in the middle, Neon Sunset and Technicolor Sunrise. Also, Jordan did his first anchor clean with Justin's help and learned an important lesson that day: "let go of the rope!" Another highlighting achievement of the day was Julio's marathon send of Neon Sunset, a route that he wasn't able to complete last year. Kudos to all at the Magic Bus!
The last day we had to go back to the Panty Wall because we hadn't given it the attention it desserved on the first day, and there were many routes still begging to be climbed. The three of us who stayed that day got in more routes than the previous two days combined!: Nicki got in 4 climbs (2 leads), I got in 3 leads, and Jordan got in 2 climbs. We were all completely spent and satisfied by the end of the day, the perfect way to end our trip.
Climbs Done:
Sandstone Quarry
Friction Gription (5.9+ ***) TR: Once the sun came out and completely dryed the route, it was a great climb yet again. It was unfortunate that Justin didn't get in his lead due to the hail, guess it just wasn't meant to be.
Magic Bus
Technicolor Sunrise (5.8 ***) Lead: This route the second route from the right, and starts right to the left of a triangle shaped indentation. The first three bolts are definitely the crux, and then it gets very easy at the top.
Neon Sunset (5.8 ***) Lead: Had a great time leading this yet again, even though it was a bit overbolted. Once I got near the top I could definitely feel the rope drag, and this caused the last two bolts to be a little exciting as it got a bit harder and I was getting more tired than I expected.
Blonde Dwarf (5.10a ***) TR: This is the left most route on the wall and is an all around fun climb. Very well sustained and crimpy.
Panty Wall
Silk Panties (5.7 ***) Lead: This is the right most lead on the wall and is very well protected. This was Nicki's first lead and was the perfect route for her.
Unnamed (5.7 ***) Lead: The guide says this is TR only, but sport bolts were placed recently. This was one of my favorite routes. Nicki also lead this one on the last day.
Boxer Rebellion (5.8 ***) Lead: This route, and the one to the right, were my favorite leads at Red Rocks. The middle part, between bolts three and four, gets a little thin but overall it is a lot easier than it first appears. A must do if when you go to Panty!
Brief Encounter (5.8+ ***) Lead: This was probably the hardest lead I did on our trip, as it gets a little overhung at the end. But the holds are great the rest of the way so it's really no sweat!
Note on climb ratings: * - Good, ** - Excellent, *** - Classic
