![]()
|
Not sure where this place is, but it's a beatiful shot by Will* |
|
Red Rocks, Part Trois!
This trip by far had the most climbers (me, Steph, Will, Maya, Nicki, David, Jordan) and I had big dreams of us conquering entire walls, with three ropes in use at a time. However, my dreams were soon crushed once I found out that the Red Rocks Rendezvous was going on the exact same weekend that we were going, which meant that all the most popular walls were going to be monopolized by climbing clinics. This meant that we had little freedom to chose where to climb without running into climbing classes and an example of this was on the second day out when we scrambled all the way up The Magic Bus only to find that it was completely taken up by the time we got there (and those leads were some of my favorites in the whole park). On the positive side, we were able to use all the clinics ropes on Panty Wall while the climbing classes were on lunch, which meant that we had a good hour and a half of getting to top rope without having to setup anchors. With limited time however, only Nicki and I were able to get in a good lead, and the rest of the time on our climbing trip we spent top roping.
As far as climbing milestones go for this trip, Jackal made a rare appearance on the rock and worked up enough courage to climb a classic route on Panty Wall named Silk Panties. In his picture on the left you'll notice a look of pure horror on his face as he's climbing. Don't worry though, he succussfully made it up to top and down without dying. Also, it was my wife Stephanie's first time at Red Rocks and she did really well climbing all the routes at Panty Wall. It was also her first time rappelling, and I had her get her money's worth on the long 80 ft. Sandstone Quarry wall. Other first time climbers at Red Rocks included David, Maya, and Will and they all had a great time climbing.
Climbs Done:
Sandstone Quarry
| Approach | None |
| Poison Oak | None |
| Sun Exposure | Low if inside Front Corridor canyon, else high |
Friction Gription (5.9+ ***) TR: I got to climb this route several times and very much enjoyed and was still felt it was a little challenging at the beginning and middle. This route and Sicktion might be worth repeating again and again at Red Rocks.
Sicktion (5.10 **) TR: Did this route again after not climbing it for two years. This seemed a lot harder than I remembered! Thus, I bumped up the rating from 5.9+ to a solid 5.10. The begin is definitely the crux and the middle is still very thin and sustained. I'm not sure why this was so much easier the first time I was in Red Rocks, but I hope it's not because was a better climber then.
Panty Wall
| Approach | 30-45 min. up moderate-steep hills |
| Poison Oak | None |
| Sun Exposure | High |
Silk Panties (5.7 ***) Lead: This is the right most lead on the wall and is very well protected. This was probably the most popular route on the wall, and even the Jackal made a rare appearance on it!
Unnamed (5.7 ***) Lead: The guide says this is TR only, but sport bolts were placed recently. This was one of my favorite routes.
Boxer Rebellion (5.8 ***) Lead: This route, and the one to the right, were my favorite leads at Red Rocks. The middle part, between bolts three and four, gets a little thin but overall it is a lot easier than it first appears. A must do if when you go to Panty!
Brief Encounter (5.8+ ***) Lead: This was probably the hardest lead I did on our trip, as it gets a little overhung at the end. But the holds are great the rest of the way so it's really no sweat!
Note on climb ratings: * - Good, ** - Excellent, *** - Classic
§ Special thanks to Will Write, Nick Kominitsky, Jordan Keene, and Lauren Hanson for providing many of these pics
|
David
gets ready to climb Friction Gription
|
Will
gives Friction Gription a try
|
||
|
Getting
a quick climb in before sunset!
|
Belaying
in style
|
||
|
Do
or do not, there is no try.
|
I
rappel down after setupping up anchor, eager to climb on Friction
Gription!
|
||
|
Showing
the group the hardest sport route at Red Rocks, Monster Skank
|
Steph
prepares to climb at Sandstone Quarry
|
||
|
David
attempts Siction
|
Steph
poses before jumping on the rock
|
||
|
Nicki
climbing Siction, while Maya cleans Gription.
|
Getting
ready to side pull
|
||
|
Onlookers
in the dusk
|
I
chalk up before the next section of the climb
|
||
|
Racing
The Shadow up the wall!
|
The
Jackal as the Thinker... or the Sinker??
|
||
|
All the men climb simultaneously on Panty Wall
|
The
women attentively belay their man
|
||
|
Climbing
couple 1
|
Climbing
couple 2
|
||
|
Climbing
couple 3
|
The
etnire climbing gang after our last day of climbing at the First Pullout
|
||
|
Myca
and the climbers at Panty Wall
|
Steph
rests on my shoulder as I lower her down
|
||
|
Belayer
talk
|
Will
attacks Brief Encounter
|
||
|
A
Kodak momment
|
|||
|
Nick
and Lauren are in awe of the Panty Wall
|
David
sneers at the camera
|
||
|
Maya
finishes Silk Panties
|
Helping
Steph get ready to climb at Panty Wall
|
||
|
A
great shot looking down at Steph climbing
|
A
stunning side view of Panty Wall and beyond, ala Will-o-vision
|
||
|
Will-o-vision,
looking down at Maya
|
Nick
poses his girlfriend Lauren for the picture
|
||
|
Nicki
begins Silk Panties while her boyfriend David belays...and wonders
if the route's name is really true?
|
This
one's for all the trad climbers out there. The guy did this route
entirely with stopper nutts.
|
||
|
Condor
on top of Red Rocks!
|

