Main Gibraltar Rock

T-Crack as seen from Lower Gibraltar

Gibraltar Rock is one of the most classic and popular climbing sites in SB and I believe it was also the first one developed way back in the 50's. I take most people here if it's their first time climbing because all the routes are gentle to beginners, but it also gets them mentally confident with the high exposure and gives them an introduction to slabby sandstone, a SB trademark. To get there you must drive past the Santa Barbara mission and take Mountain Road up to its namesake street, Gibraltar Road, all the way up the mountain until you see a prominent rock facing the ocean. There are actually many climbing spots all within a quarter mile stretch of this road including Bolt Ladder, Toxic Waste Wall, Upper Gibraltar, and Lower Gibraltar, but the main Gibraltar stands out the most and is impossible to miss. All the routes here have easily accessible TR's via a short hiking trail up the back, but one can also free climb the routes using trad gear. The main face hosts four routes that go from 5.4 on the right and get progressively harder the more you go left until you hit The Nose which is a classic 5.11a overhanging crack. On the other side of the face is another classic route called the T-Crack, which some may call the best climb in SB. It's an old school 5.10b (which I feel is more like a 5.11a), having three distinct cruxes, but the trademark move on the route is a big mantle right between the two horizontal cracks. Also below the T-Crack is a fun little face called Sea of Holes which can be TR'd using either the bolts on the ledge or by using the trees. Just as a warning, since this is a class SB climbing spot, UCSB often has rock climbing classes out there on the weekends (as well as the city Search and Rescue), so be prepared to have to share the wall or go to one of the many other crags if it's crowded.

Approach	0-5 min. slightly dowhill
Poison Oak	None
Sun Exposure	Medium-High (Some bushes around belay areas for shade)

 

 

 

Climbs I've Done:

The Ladder / Midface (5.4 - 5.6 **) Trad - These two routes comprise the right half of the main face, and most people setup a toprope above and can climb either one. There are about a million variations to these climbs, but I typically start to the right of the big crack at the bottom and then follow it left all the way to the top if I'm leading.

Klingon (5.9 ***) TR - This route is on the left hand side and starts in a big alcove next to The Nose. The bottom of the route is the crux and involves some interesting moves such as stemming and other tricks with your body weight to make it to the big roof. From here you can either keep going straight up, or traverse over to the arête for some amazingly beautiful climbing. The route is about a 100', so be prepared with a 60-70 meter rope and someone assisting you at the bottom if you are rappelling so you end up at the belay spot instead of the off the side of the mountain! This route really feels like two distinct climbs and varies a lot from the bottom and top, so you'll definitely get your money's worth on it!

T-Crack (5.10b ***) TR - This is the obvious T shaped crack on the other side of Gibraltar and is one of the best and most aesthetic crack climbs on the central coast. I even have a picture of someone climbing it in a climbing calendar of spots from around the world. This route has always given me problems and made me work hard, but it's always rewarding to be able to finish it and it serves as a good barometer of my climbing skill. It's quite steep and sustained and you don't really get a rest until you hit the mantle about 2/3's of the way up. I won't give up too much beta about how to do it, but the start is what typically gets most people who aren't used to climbing on cracks so I'll give a tip. Usually what I do is side pull to the left while high stepping with my right foot into the crack below my hands and this will allow you to at least get started. If you can't do this beginning move, then Sea of Holes may be meant for you.

Sea of Holes (5.8 *) TR - This is the face that is below the belay ledge for T-Crack and like it's name implies, is covered with pockets. The higher you go, the smaller the holes get but typically you will always have a hold if you need one.