Looking down at Lieback Annie from the main ledge on top

Looking up at the main face of Lower Gibraltar from the lower ledge

Looking up at the first bolts on Rapture

I watch Mohit and Moriah get ready to climb wihle perched on my "photo ledge"

Lower Gibraltar is a very relaxing, low profile crag that offers two quality climbs. The quick setup and short routes are perfect for an after work climbing trip when you don't have that much time but want to run up some fun routes that are different than most others in the Gibraltar area (quality rock that's very gritty). Although the name may lead one to believe it's located directly below Gibraltar main, it's actually down the street a hundred yards or so, exactly two pullouts after the main one for Gibraltar. If you park on the left side of the street, you then take a steep dirt path downhill and approach the face from the top and rappel down to the lower ledge and begin the climbs there. Like most faces around the Gibraltar area, this crag is very scenic and faces the ocean so it gets lots of sun. Rapture is a great sport climbing lead for the level and offers plenty of protection (almost too much, but the thinness of the face makes you feel thankful for it). Lieback Annie is another classic that follows up a dihedral crack and is one of the best crack climbs in the area for the level.

Approach 5 min. down a slight hill
Poison Oak Low
Sun Exposure Slight shade at the bottom ledge under the tree

 

 

 

Climbs I've Done:

Rapture (5.9 ***) Sport - A well protected but very sustained route that follows the arete on the left side of the face and ends up in the middle of the face. Requires some sound technique to get up all the crimps and small edges.

Lieback Annie (5.7 ***) TR - This climb follows the obvious crack on the right of the face. Unlike most easy climbs that can be a bit boring, I always look forward to climbing this route because it requires a liebacking technique that I rarely get to use. The moment the crack turns into a finger sized crack at the upper corner, then the climb turns classic. If only this crack continued another 20 feet then this would be an ultra classic crack of the central coast.

 

First time to Lower Gibraltar and I find some booty left on the anchor bolts!
Steph poses next to the booty left on the anchor
Mohit begins Rapture
Climbing the arete
Mohit cleans my quickdraws
Getting into the thin crack
I rappell down to belay Moriah
Moriah gets a shot at Rapture
Moriah reaches for the corner
Climbing on her tip toes
Time for a run up Lieback Annie
It's lieback time!
Mohit practices some liebacks
Now for the real liebacking!
Moriah digs into the crack
Moriah fights for that ledge
Lowering down for the last climb of the day
Steph poses on top