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Lower Gibraltar is a very relaxing, low profile crag that offers two quality climbs. The quick setup and short routes are perfect for an after work climbing trip when you don't have that much time but want to run up some fun routes that are different than most others in the Gibraltar area (quality rock that's very gritty). Although the name may lead one to believe it's located directly below Gibraltar main, it's actually down the street a hundred yards or so, exactly two pullouts after the main one for Gibraltar. If you park on the left side of the street, you then take a steep dirt path downhill and approach the face from the top and rappel down to the lower ledge and begin the climbs there. Like most faces around the Gibraltar area, this crag is very scenic and faces the ocean so it gets lots of sun. Rapture is a great sport climbing lead for the level and offers plenty of protection (almost too much, but the thinness of the face makes you feel thankful for it). Lieback Annie is another classic that follows up a dihedral crack and is one of the best crack climbs in the area for the level.
| Approach | 5 min. down a slight hill |
| Poison Oak | Low |
| Sun Exposure | Slight shade at the bottom ledge under the tree |
Climbs I've Done:
Rapture (5.9 ***) Sport - A well protected but very sustained route that follows the arete on the left side of the face and ends up in the middle of the face. Requires some sound technique to get up all the crimps and small edges.
Lieback Annie (5.7 ***) TR - This climb follows the obvious crack on the right of the face. Unlike most easy climbs that can be a bit boring, I always look forward to climbing this route because it requires a liebacking technique that I rarely get to use. The moment the crack turns into a finger sized crack at the upper corner, then the climb turns classic. If only this crack continued another 20 feet then this would be an ultra classic crack of the central coast.
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First
time to Lower Gibraltar and I find some booty left on the anchor bolts!
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Steph
poses next to the booty left on the anchor
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Mohit
begins Rapture
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Climbing
the arete
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Mohit
cleans my quickdraws
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Getting
into the thin crack
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I
rappell down to belay Moriah
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Moriah
gets a shot at Rapture
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Moriah
reaches for the corner
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Climbing
on her tip toes
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Time
for a run up Lieback Annie
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It's
lieback time!
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Mohit
practices some liebacks
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Now
for the real liebacking!
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Moriah
digs into the crack
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Moriah
fights for that ledge
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Lowering
down for the last climb of the day
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Steph
poses on top
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